Efendy | Balmain

06/04/2010

Post image for Efendy | Balmain

‘Meze journey to Istanbul’

food bloggers dinner

 

Eight years ago I was wandering the streets of a fascinating, exotic and beautiful waterfront city. Chestnut trees were dropping their spiky fruit, traffic was absolute madness, the call to prayer echoed from minarets and the sunset bathed architectural masterpieces in a honey glow. Istanbul. One minute you’re in Europe, and the next you can be in Asia. Can’t wait to go back someday.

Over the Easter weekend I was lucky to attend an amazing three-hour degustation dinner at Balmain’s prestigious Efendy, supplied and hosted by Somer and Asli Sivrioglu, to celebrate Ottoman and new Istanbul cuisine. The progression of food was sensational and featured a diverse collection of traditional wedding dishes, family recipes and royal cuisine. Tonight we were all made to feel like part of the family. 

The first of the cold meze dishes to arrive is the fava – a family recipe of broad bean, onion and dill pate topped with artichoke. It’s soft, flavoursome and nourishing.

efendy

in old Turkish means “gentleman”

Used to describe people with a traditional

upbringing adopting modern views

Platters of hamsi are next to arrive – rich and oily Black Sea sardines draped over tomato confit. Straight after we are presented with midye dolma – stuffed Tasmanian black mussels. The risotto-like stuffing is lightly spiced, contains currants and pinenuts and finishes nicely with a squeeze of lemon. Served cold, these are divine and I can see why they are so easily sold as street food back in the homeland.

It’s nice to see I’m not the only food freak that whips out a camera every time I’m at a restaurant, as Amy, Phuoc, Leona (hidden), and Denéa have here.

I’m a bit of a sucker for punishment. When I was in Turkey I tried the national drink – raki. The distilled anise-flavoured  drink comes chilled and to drink it you drop in some ice then add water. It didn’t agree with me then, and it didn’t agree with me this time. Upset stomach aside, I had plenty more food to get through!

The dish that created the most interest was the kok yumurtasi – widely served in iskembeci - late-night restaurants in Istanbul purely devoted to offal dishes. Tonights offal came in the form of testicles. Lamb testicles. Lightly pan-fried and served on a bed of garlicy almond tarator and a crunchy pastry disc. The flavour and texture is like a mild chicken liver and goes down well with most of our group. Quite delicious!

The kadayifli karides – Hervey Bay king prawns elaborately cocooned in threads of kadayif pastry, fried and served on a tasty mound of  muhammara (blended roasted red capsicum, garlic and walnuts). The prawns are cooked to perfection and I can’t help but compare the muhammara to something I grew up eating – ajvar.

         

A delicious trio of lamb dishes was beautifully displayed on one platter. The absolute stand-out for me here is the traditional wedding soup of yoghurt, rice, chickpeas and braised lamb neck. The combination of tart yoghurt melded perfectly with the shredded lamb meat and rich collagen flavour. I could have eaten this all night.

The mini iskender of Dorper lamb backstrap is nicely flavoured with tomato and sits on top of jus-soaked croutons, capsicum, paprika and garlic yoghurt. Tender, sweet and salty. A tasty mouthful.

Tandir style Bultarra saltbush lamb shoulder is the third morsel and comes served on eggplant skin filled with its pureed flesh. The meat is lovely and tender and couples well with the simple smokey flavours of the creamy eggplant.

Colourful bowls of ahirdagi salata are distributed over our large table to accompany the delicious ana yemek (main meal). A salad of finely-diced tomato, cucumber, red onion, walnuts and pomegranate arils lightly dressed in lemon juice and pomegranate molasses. Fresh, crunchy and no doubt, healthy!

We must be just about done, right? Not until a sweet ending, that is. The tatli tabagi (dessert platter) is gracefully placed infront of us and looks as impressive as the rest of the precedings. Your eyes are automatically drawn to the kesku – a traditional royal pudding of almond, pistachio and pomegranate jewels. Here it’s topped with a wisp of sugary floss and is a real delight to spoon into. The 42-layer walnut baklava is made onsite and is crunchy and super sweet as expected. Sadly I wasn’t that taken by the glutinous texture of the kazandibi, a burnt mastic and cinnamon pudding.

The final element to the feast came dusted in powdery sugar – Turkish Delight. What a perfect ending to a wonderful meal. A very big thank you goes out to Somer and Asli for accommodating us all, thanks to the efficient and informative staff for putting up with us and thanks to Simon for organising things and inviting me along. Apologies to any of the food bloggers I didn’t meet properly, but I’m sure we’ll cross paths again!

Final special thanks again to Somer and Asli for the generous sample bag of Turkish delights: pomegranate molasses, apple tea, isot (sundried capsicum) and Turkish Delight. Perfect timing with the pomegranate molasses … I just ran out of it at home!

An impromptu dinner at another restaurant in Balmain had us return to Efendy for dessert. The dondurma is a stretchy Marash ice cream topped with Turkish floss, Antep pistachios and swirl of sour cherry jus. The inzir ceviz is a warm fig and walnut cake drizzled with grape molasses, butterscotch sauce and scoop of Marash ice-cream. Loved them!   

Efendy
79 Elliott Street
Balmain 2041
9810 5466
Wed-Sat lunch & dinner
Sat-Sun 9am-2pm
efendy.com.au
Efendy Restaurant | meze bar on Urbanspoon
  
   

   

 

 

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{ 13 comments… read them below or add one }

Belle@OohLook 06/04/2010 at 1:09 pm

Hi Eric, I mean, John – love your photos, they are beautiful. Sorry we didn’t get a chance to talk on Sunday. Too busy eating.

Simon Food Favourites 06/04/2010 at 4:15 pm

wow some great photos there. looks like your camera came good. that’s a very cool opening pic (very foodiepop hehe) and the detail photos of the decorations are wonderful. so funny seeing the photos of the bloggers taking photos — it’s our way of saying Grace before eating the food I keep saying hehe. noice one of my hands and camera with the midye dolma positioned on the table cloth :-) so glad i cut my nails!

Phuoc'n Delicious 06/04/2010 at 5:13 pm

Hehe.. “Eric”; it’s so true! Sorry we didn’t get to chat but like you said, we should cross paths again soon… (Are you going on Friday?)

I love your photos.

I have to figure out what to do with our goodies bag; besides eating the turkish delight and drinking the tea, I don’t know what I should make with Isot. What do you have planned?

john@heneedsfood 06/04/2010 at 5:37 pm

I can’t believe you all think I look like Eric Bana!
Simon I like how you say us taking photo’s of food before eating it is our way of saying Grace. So true!
Phuoc I may go on Friday, might see you there! Try using pomegranate in salad dressings and marinades. Add some cinnamon, garlic and oil and you have a nice chicken marinade for the bbq. I used it in my cookies recipe I posted before Efendy. Try rubbing the pepper powder into meat before you grill it or just over a piece of grilled fish!

Helen (grabyourfork.blogspot.com) 06/04/2010 at 5:40 pm

A shame you weren’t keen on the kazandibi. I love that stuff although I’ve always had a weakness for all things starchy and glutinous. I was in Turkey in 2002 too. The place is amazing. I still have fond memories of the gorgeously fat and chewy hazelnut macarons we find at a pastry shop in Istanbul.

Yasmin (Almond & The Hazelnut) 06/04/2010 at 7:39 pm

Hi John,

Another appreciative comment about your photos to add to the collection – they’re beautiful! Didn’t get to chat to you after the meal which was a shame, but hopefully next time. And I’ll make sure to watch out if you’re photographing me mid bite!

Was quite the night wasn’t it… great memories :)

billy@a table for two 06/04/2010 at 10:26 pm

I had to go back to Simon’s blog to check out which blogger looks like Eric Bana, LOL! Looks like a great feast at Efendy, now I am very intrigued of the lamb’s testicle…

the whirling derbish (is that a lamp shade?) is so cute!

John 06/04/2010 at 10:40 pm

Yeah the best tasting teste’s I’ve had. The whirling dervish lamp shade was lovely, though it was easy to mistake them for hanging from nooses!

Amy 07/04/2010 at 2:30 am

Nice opening pics, now I know why you went so early! That was one amazing feast. I had to roll myself outta their and into a taxi.

Leona 08/04/2010 at 12:52 pm

Hey John,
bummer i didnt get to chat to you.. you were sitting soo far away. Im sure there is always next time and its probably my fault as I was late =| Kinda had to drive abit slow cos i realised i forgot my license at home *ouCh*

Till next time!! by the way YOUR PHOTOS ARE A-M-A-Z-I-N-G!!!! I’ve been looking through your blog ^_^

Mark @ Cafe Campana 08/04/2010 at 7:50 pm

These are some really good looking pictures of a fantastic meal. I like how you have taken photos of the decor too.

John 08/04/2010 at 9:41 pm

Thanks Leona! There’s always next time

tasteofbeirut 18/05/2010 at 11:44 am

I like you am fascinated with Istanbul; spent a few days there around Christmas this year and wanted to -well, move there!. I am glad you loved that yogurt soup, we have quite a few yogurt soups in our Lebanese cuisine; I will make them come winter. Also your comment on the muhammara reminded me i saw an amazing looking red pepper dip or compote in manina, a fellow blogger who is Croatian and wondered if you are talking about the same thing. (by the way, to answer your question I am sorry, my dad did not teach me Croatian; at home, he spoke Italian and French his grandma was from Trieste and lived with them)

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