District Dining – Surry Hills

Who would have thought that rain and being under pressure would lead to damn good food? Let me explain. The inlaws are about to descend on my house. The entire K family is about to jet in from two parts of the world - London and Wellington – and stay with us for over a week. Mr K’s mum, sister and partner are descending from the UK and the other sister is arriving from Lower Hutt, Wellington. Kiwi’s and poms, lordie help me. Just kidding, I’m actually looking forward to it.

The pressure component comes from trying to complete the tiling in the back courtyard so that it isn’t such a mess and this god-awful rain we’ve had for the past week or so is slowing down the process. Yup, I’m doing it all myself (with help from the K) and a part of me (shall I say my back and knees) are wishing we paid for a tradie to do it. The tiles are down, the grout is in and now it’s just the final stage of sealing. Riveting stuff, I know, so as the rain decided to settle in today we jumped on the train and headed to another district for a well-earned lunch.

District Dining is a new kid on the (Mondrian) block that has taken residence upstairs in the recently refurbed Central Hotel across the road from the Devonshire tunnel at Central Station. Didn’t this used to be a gaming lounge? This new venture by Warren Turnbull of Assiette is a relaxed dining space decked out in wood panelling, white marble table tops and The Lido, a corner balcony where you can sit with some shucked oysters, a companion and forget about the world for a while.

The food here is designed for sharing and has an all-round international flavour. The menu is brief, diverse and has you wanting one of each.

All meals came out at the same time and the first I tuck into is one that took me back to the streets of Fes. The ras el hanout quail screams the flavours of Morocco with its generously spiced melt-in-the-mouth quail meat, oozing its juices into a thick slice of toasted brioche. Pomegranate arils and micro coriander complete the North African story. It truly is a multiple spice sensation.

The Castricum lamb shoulder is a rustic affair sitting on top of a velvety spiced carrot purée with a trio of honeyed baby carrots with cumin and scatter of toasted pinenuts. The meat is delicate and the purée has me wanting the recipe.

The pork belly has me slightly ecstatic with its salty combination of succulent meat and fat, crackling, fennel seeds and kimchee. I’ve got to say it’s the best pork belly I’ve had for a very long time and the pairing with the spicy kimchee is a match made in belly heaven.

As we’re tucking into our food I look up and notice a familiar face enter the restaurant. Helen from Grab your Fork has entered the building. I didn’t even have enough time to ask Mr K if my hair was ok. After a quick air kiss and howdy I went back to my food as Helen joins her party at a neighbouring table.

There’s always room for dessert, right? Two choices just had to be made. The novel presentation of the buttermilk panna cotta in a glass jar adds a bit of interest to this dessert. Not that it needs theatrics. The creamy vanilla panna cotta is generously topped with tart blood orange granita, another taste sensation. Love it.

Being more of a fan than I am, Mr K goes for the coffee brulée with chocolate madeleines. The toffee crust is thinner than most, the custard is equally-so yet the flavour is just wonderful. The only way to incorporate the spongy madeleines is to tear them and dunk into the glorious custard.

There’s only one suggestion I can make. Get your backside down here before the rest of Sydney does.

Now, time to get home and continue with those tiles.

Tagged as: Inner City, Mod Oz, Surry Hills