Kingfish Bistro – Newtown

The ever-changing face of King Street south has a newcomer. This newcomer has apparently been quietly lurking in the background waiting for one of my favourite Pakistani/Indian restaurants, shall I say Curry On King, to close its doors for good and vacate so that cook Kim Howard could get on with firing up those pans in the new Kingfish Bistro after moving on from a Haymarket pub. When we first saw newspapers lining the windows of our much loved curry house we knew this was the end of a five year gastronomic relationship. I was expecting this day would eventually come as they were never busy and despite the fact that they dished up some mean food, nobody wanted to venture south of Enmore Road for what I thought was the best place for curry along King Street. Farewell Curry On King. 

Hello Kingfish Bistro. It was a little bizarre walking in and finding a place completely fitted out with white walls, heavy black ceiling and what used to be a honey coloured wood panel wall now has an aged copper patina. White table cloths, a chalk board featuring a handful of specials and desserts and the most friendly and warm service I’ve encountered for a bloody long time. Loving the three-panel artwork painted by business partner Nick Howard and fish mosaic by mum Vera that really ought to be put up on a wall for all to see.    

A basket of bread and olives lands on the table soon after we’re seated and the beautiful ex virg olive oil by Matt Robinson at Hunter Valley’s Cintra Estate with salt crystals lurking beneath is divine.

The name of the bistro gives an obvious hint to what you can expect on the menu. Any guesses? So it goes without fail that I choose myself the fried whitebait with oregano, lemon and olive oil. They may be small but these little babies pack some meat on their bones. A squelch of lemon juice and smear of the herb, oil and chopped capers isn’t enough for me so I dunk them into Mr K’s barely-touched aioli. He settles on the flash fried calamari that thankfully doesn’t resemble the elastic bands you often encounter in this town and the spicy salt that comes with could have done with a little more spice.    

Seeing the slow roast pork belly go out to other tables almost made me go with this delicious option but a last second change of mind had me with the duck confit. Sitting solidly on top of buttery spring onion mash, the heart-warming pink flesh of the duck was absolute perfection once combined with the mash and sherry orange glaze. Maple scented asparagus and sugar snaps came along for the ride as well.

While I was tucking into my beloved quack, someone else was smacking his lips in pleasure over New Zealand snapper fillet draped over hand cut chips and shallot butter sauce. I forked a piece of the fish and found it beautifully cooked and I especially liked the lemony and buttery sauce. Simple, homely and unfussy. 

Thanks to having a late lunch I had absolutely no room for dessert but you can see for yourself what your two options are at the bottom of the chalk board. Perhaps such a small selection will change as time progresses? I did like the unexpected sweet ending with two seashell chocolates and truffles. A nice bit of sugar after a great meal.

PS. Lovin’ the sign above the kitchen door.      

Tagged as: Inner West, Mod Oz, Newtown, Seafood