For a neighbourhood that’s a mere ten minutes from home, Glebe barely falls on the radar as being an option for eating or loitering. Don’t get me wrong as I think there are some great little places to eat at and the village atmosphere has more appeal than the centre of Newtown, but somehow it’s just never thought of. Lately it seems I only get up to Glebe Point Road when something new has opened.
Something new like what’s just popped up beside the discount chemist on the corner of Glebe Point Road and Cowper Street. And what is it with discount chemists opening in just about every suburb? Appropriately named The Wedge is a long and very narrow space that doesn’t celebrate the use of mismatched plates and souvenir spoons from an op-shop, something many-a-cafe has embraced across town. Not that there’s anything wrong with that. It’s just getting a little predictable. The Wedge opens out to the side street with wooden stools perched at large retractable windows and more seating runs the length of a corrugated wall to a cosy nook scattered with cushions and milk crates.
Owner Toby Wilson, ex coffee man at Le Monde, has a simple formula going with the food at The Wedge. A handful of breakfast items and another handful of sandwiches; no eggs & bacon, no ubiquitous salt & pepper calamari or chicken caesar salad. Head to any cafe on the strip for those. Bread from Newtown’s Luxe Bakery is toasted and topped with fresh ingredients (bruschetta/tartine style) or sliced fresh and sandwiched with the likes of lemon & sage poached chicken or beef with onion jam & vintage cheddar. There’s bircher muesli, toasted banana bread with maple butter or just toasted sourdough with preserves and regular spreads.
Virgin Mary on toast (9) was the special going on this particular visit – think Bloody Mary with less liquid and more solids. Diced roma tomato, celery leaves, black pepper, sea salt, Tabasco, Worcestershire; all on toasted sourdough with a wedge of lemon on the side. The mild tingle on the lips is a nice little pick-me-up. The Five Senses coffee is well-crafted and poured but not as gutsy as I prefer. Nothing a double shot won’t remedy.
I fell in love with the shaved dried fig, pistachio & ricotta (9) on fig sourdough. Rosewater honey adds sweetness and aromatics and the texture is a jumble of grainy, crunchy and soft. Add wet to those three textures and you’ve got yourself a classic ice Milo (5) – simply described as lots in the bottom, lots on top, milk and ice cream in between. One for the kids and the adults!
Of the five listed sandwiches just one stood above the rest, in my eyes. Any guesses? Pulled pork with plum sauce, spring onion, mint and coriander (9). The bread is rediculously fresh and with the combination of tenderly gorgeous meat with sweet plum and crunchy greens, I could have easily scoffed a second one. I hope this becomes a menu staple.
On a later visitation is was a couple of sandwiches for a speedy lunch. Chicken & leek (12) with mayo, mustard and rocket. Can’t go wrong there. For me it was The Henry (13) – with smashed egg, ham, avocado, gruyere, smoked chipotle mayo, basil & rocket. Great flavours. Sadly it was toasted to the point of the Turkish bread resembling a cracker; making it much more difficult to eat and a real workout for the teeth. Had the menu stated it would be pressed in a toaster I’d have reconsidered.