The southern end of King Street seems to be going through a bit of a resurgence. It’s been a bit of an empty lease wasteland for far too long and the only businesses that seem to survive down here are second-hand furniture joints. But there are more than enough of those. As is the case with Thai restaurants and the current saturation of frozen yoghurt bars up the other end of King Street
In the 7-odd years that I’ve lived in this part of town I’ve seen two restaurants open their doors at 622 King Street, eventually struggle with business and close their doors permanently. It’s a decent corner location, but sadly the folk that take the lease seem to miss the mark. Zagaris closed it’s doors last year, and before it there was Blue Vein, another pizza joint that never quite learned how to do pizza right.
Along comes a place that has already made some kind of mark in Sydney’s Inner West. Anyone that’s familiar with Stanmore will already know the name. Molly Coddle Cafe. They’ve been chugging along there for quite a while now. Not that I’ve been, mind you. It’s always a scary move to open a second outlet of any small business. Will it flourish, or will it struggle?
We decided to stop by for lunch on what happened to be opening day. Balloons bobbed around, parents and their offspring enjoyed the outdoor tables; the place was pumping. It doesn’t take much to excite us Erko locals.
Whilst it may appear that Farmer Jo and Sonoma products rule the roost in the breakfast and bread game, there’s also a bit of a Filipino thing going on the lunch menu as well.
Back to the brekkie, Molly’s one pot (12.5) covers the bases if you need a fry-up. Your own skillet loaded with soft fried eggs, bacon, toast and a salad. Another one that kick-started my day, and my metabolism, was the jumping chilli beans (13.5), a surprisingly large serve of baked beans and eggs that’ll leave your lips tingling.
The lunch menu is a mish-mash of burgers, pasta, steak and the afore-mentioned Filipino offerings. The quinoa, chevre & beetroot tart (12.5) may be crossing into quiche territory, but it’s a tasty and light lunch plate. Pity the tomatoes in the salad were of the flavourless and crunchy kind.
The Filipino tapsilog (14.5) caught my attention first. Marinated strips of beef with garlic rice and a fried egg. Sadly the beef was overcooked and rather dry and bland, with none of the marinade coming through. The rice made up for the lack of flavour in the meat, leaving a hum of garlic in the mouth for many hours.
A better Filipino choice was the grilled adobo spatchcock (19.5). The same garlic rice joins the party; taking the weight of the rather large small chicken that’s cooked slowly in soy and vinegar, before hitting the grill. The meat is moist and damn tasty and the juices running off it add to the deliciousness of the garlic rice. It’s one dish I’d come back for, so here’s hoping they stick it out longer than the two unfortunate pizza joints before it.