Stinking Bishop cheese – known for its pungent rind washed in cider made from a variety of English pear that shares the same stinky name – may not be found on the shelves of Enmore Roads new cheese-deli-wine bar, but if you want to talk cheese (and gorge on the stuff) it’s the place to gravitate to.
Owners Kieran Day and Jamie Nimmo have combined their talents, interests and experiences; opening a place where local and international cheese is matched with vino, whiskey and fine charcuterie. Or, take a pick from whatever is resting or hanging in the open fridge behind the counter and devour it in your own abode.
Loaves of local Grain Organic bread are neatly stacked in baskets and crates beneath shelves displaying bottles of tomato sauce, packs of Golden Cobra coffee, chutneys, crackers, house-made pickles and fig & walnut rolada.
On the opposite wall – a board displaying an ever-changing list of delectable cheeses.
It doesn’t take much to fill the small space, but scoring a seat makes for the start of some pretty fine eating. The small menu – still a work in progress – has the likes of cheese and charcuterie boards. Even a fish board with house-pickled mussels and white anchovy crackers. Kieran’s British heritage shines through to an English-style pork pie and a ploughman’s board (23) that I had my gaze firmly locked. It may not have been as abundant as I was hoping, but the impossibly thin guanciale (cured pork jowl), Ashgrove clothbound cheddar, pub-pickled egg and gherkin made for a tasty light lunch.
There’s a small variety of “Mr Crispy” (12.5) pressed sandwiches and the pick of the bunch for us was worth its weight in deliciousness. Smoked wagyu beef, gruyere, horseradish mayo and Stinking Bishop’s own bread & butter pickles. A serious go-to sambo for a serious go-to cheesemonger.