Will our humble Inner West suburb of Marrickville ever feel the fatigue of having too many coffee roasters? I mean, how many are there within the boundaries of 2204? At least five, I’m sure, so the more the merrier I say. Quite often when I’m at St Peters station I notice the smell of coffee being roasted; wafting from somewhere about a kilometre away in Marrickville. The problem is you just don’t know who’s responsible for it.
No complaints, mind you.
When the better half told me about a relatively new roastery and cafe in the thick of warehouse-ville on Victoria Road, I went in for a little investigating when I had the chance. Opening such a business in what’s pretty much an industrial area means nothing to us city folk. People work there – they need food and coffee. People live nearby – they have the same requirements. The average caffeine addict doesn’t give a toss about location.
The guy behind Roastville is George Choutis, a bloke with something like 20 years of industry experience under his belt. His hard work has truly paid off in transforming 157 Victoria Road into a place where you can grab a coffee, a bite and take a sneaky peek at how a boutique coffee roaster operates.
You’re first greeted with a small, open-air courtyard scattered with tables and benches. Perfect place to sit and up your intake of vitamin D. Inside it’s a mood board of glazed green tiles, parquetry, chipboard and amber lighting; with recessed shelving displaying preserves, sugar, local honey, coffee accoutrement and packets of roasted beans.
Pastry chef Libby does a fine job in filling and topping the chiller cabinet with her sweet temptations. Slices, cakes, muffins – you name it. As for the savoury stuff, chef Rumil Binas has put together an all day breakfast and lunch menu that has some little beauties well-worth trying.
Green eggs (15.9) is one of them. When I think of green eggs I imagine scrambled eggs mixed with basil pesto. There’s none of that going on. This is a celebration of many things green – kale, sugar snaps, broad beans and chervil cream – lovingly pan-tossed and topped with two 65° eggs, a light touch of chilli powder and hunk of toasted Brickfields sourdough.
For those that like a bit of fried chicken with with their eggs, this one’s for you – the dirty bird benedict (15.9). Golden, crispy and moist, the chicken sports two oozing eggs and mild harissa hollandaise. Wowsers.
The lunch menu is a medley of sandwiches, salads, burgers and two mains we couldn’t resist. Yes we’ve all seen the chicken and waffles thing, but how about fried chicken and kimchi waffles? (17). As if that isn’t enough, Kewpie mayo and sriracha come to the party, as does a generous grating of parmesan. The kimchi is already in the waffle batter; something that does render it soggy if you let it sit too long, but dive in quick and there’s no drama.
12-hour slow braised beef cheek (19) is another winning menu entry, and not overly rich as one would expect. The collagen-rich meat melts pretty much as soon as you stick it in your gob, and as you dive into the celeriac purée, mushrooms and baby carrots, it’s happiness central in the mouth.
There’s no denying these guys have become a welcome addition to the Marrickville scene – weekdays and weekends – and good to see there’s some very decent grub to go along with that great coffee.