Long pebble beaches, a picturesque location and a quiet village atmosphere – the small Dalmatian town of Primošten is the perfect spot for low-season downtime or high-season fun.
Visit in the high season (July-August) and you’ll be joining throngs of others out on Raduca – the town’s popular beach strip – or struggling to score a seat at one of the waterside cafés and restaurants.
Not much for crowds? Then May-October may appeal. At this time of year the temps aren’t as high and the people numbers are seriously low.
Primošten’s main attraction is its old town – a former island that was once accessible by bridge, but now connected to the mainland. This is a town that’s vastly different from hotspots like Rovinj and Dubrovnik. Its old core is mainly residential and lacks the attractions and touristy sights that some may expect to see.
Arriving at the old city gate reveals an open square with a handful of cafés and restaurants. The strip continues along the waterfront to the left, as well as winding up the hill.
A few shops sell clothing and handicrafts, and other than that, you’re in the thick of a small residential neighbourhood. I love that many of the very old houses have been restored and their beautiful stone roofs intact.
When the sun’s shining, a wonderful way to see the old town is to first walk around it; following the easy path that begins just before the old gate, and ends at the town square.
The views are spectacular, you’ll see many places you can take a swim and you witness the residents just going about their everyday lives.
Crowning the top of the hill in the old town is St. Juraj, a parish church built in 1485. There’s even a small and fascinating cemetery up there, if you like that kind of thing.
The Legends Pub – Trg Don Ive Šarića 1
As the sun nears the horizon it’s time to choose a spot and enjoy a few drinks. Most places are near the water, be it the strip of bars and eateries overlooking Raduca beach, or in the old town near the marina.
Our pick was The Legends Pub, possibly the liveliest joint in town – not that it appeared that way when we were there. Drinks out on the waterside deck, burgers if you want them, live music and plenty of local vino and cocktails.
There are many decent restaurants that offer local edibles – much of which is seafood centric. Up in the old town is Girica – a hole-in-the-wall eatery that offers a handful of dishes designed to be served with drinks. Choose your tipple and take your pick from the likes of pršut (Dalmatian smoked ham), local cheese and papaline (small fried fish).
We loved their salata od hobotnica (octopus salad; 40) and pržene lignje (fried squid; 40) – perfect with a glass, or two, of their own wine.
Girica – Put Briga
Another place worth trying is Konoba Tereza, a lovely restaurant with warm and friendly service and character-filled farmhouse atmosphere.
Sitting outside beneath the stars and strings of lights was perfection, sampling local wine and enjoying every mouthful of our chosen dishes.
The Venetian gulaš with homemade gnocchi (85) was absolute perfection, highlighted with delicious pops of sweetness from being cooked with prunes. I was smitten with the svinjski vrat sa žara (grilled pork neck; 80), topped with mozzarella and pancetta cut so thin that it melted onto the pork. Some glazed onions and blitva (chard & potatoes) only made it better.
Those jars containing a variety of fruits are there to try, as well. That’s their homemade rakija (brandy), infusing with things like lemon, cherries and oranges. The perfect nightcap!
Konoba Tereza – Grgura Ninskog 1A
Buses depart Split bus station regularly, but fill quickly, so purchasing tickets early is advised. Cost is 41 kuna per person and travel time is about one hour.
Primošten doesn’t have a bus station as such, and is more of a regular bus stop located on a traffic circle in the new town.