There was a time in my life when I could pick up a chilli, bite into it and not have to worry about the consequences. Yes it smacked my mouth with its heat, but stomach cramps never hit me several hours later.

Gone are the days.

Somehow, with age and a very slight onset of intolerance to such fiery heat, I find myself lowering the heat factor a tad when cooking requires a chilli or two.

I still remember the days when chillies, freshly picked from my dad’s garden, were a staple condiment on the dinner table. My very early teens, to be precise. In between mouthfuls of whatever the main dish may have been, you’d crunch into the chilli, dip the tip into salt and bite it again. I’m not sure if it’s a Croatian thing, but it sure was a family thing.

So here I am making harissa, that fiery Tunisian paste that packs a real punch. Yes it’s easy to buy a jar of it, but it doesn’t require that much more work to make it yourself.

Seeing my stomach is a little more precious of late, I’ve reduced the quantity of chillies that usually go into it. It’s still hot, mind you, just not to the point of making you gag for air.

The combination of dried arbol chillies, several tiny little scuds – or chiltepins that a friend sent to me from Tucson, Arizona – and aromatic spices makes for a really tasty condiment.

What can you serve harissa with? Well, just about anything. Fish, meats, on vegetables – anywhere you may want a bit of heat.

Recipes where I’ve used harissa paste / butter –

• {Romanesco cauliflower with harissa butter, pomegranate & riberries}
• {Chicken mignon with harissa butter}

Print Recipe

Harissa paste & harissa butter

This versatile North African spice paste will enliven many of your dishes. Why not give it a go?

Course

Condiments, The Larder

Servings

cup

Ingredients

Harissa paste

• 1 red capsicum
• 10 dried arbol chillies
• 6 dried chiltepins
• 1 tsp cumin seeds
• 1 tsp caraway seeds
• 1 tsp cinnamon stick crumbled
• 1 tsp smoked paprika flakes
• 2 cloves garlic
• 1 tsp salt
• 60 ml virgin olive oil (¼ cup)

Harissa Butter

• 200 g unsalted butter softened
• 1 tbsp Fennel seeds toasted and ground
• 3 tbsp harissa paste

Course Condiments, The Larder Servings cup Ingredients Harissa paste 1 red capsicum 10 dried arbol chillies 6 dried chiltepins 1 tsp cumin seeds 1 tsp caraway seeds 1 tsp cinnamon stick crumbled 1 tsp smoked paprika flakes 2 cloves garlic 1 tsp salt 60 ml virgin olive oil (¼ cup) Harissa Butter 200 g unsalted butter softened 1 tbsp Fennel seeds toasted and ground 3 tbsp harissa paste

Instructions

Harissa paste

1. Char the capsicum over a flame or under a grill until the skin is blackened all over. Place in a bowl, cover with plastic and allow to sit for 10 minutes, or so. Rub the blackened skin from the capsicum and remove the stem, seeds and inner membranes. Avoid washing the capsicum under running water as this will wash away the beautiful juices. Set aside.
2. Cut the stems off the arbol chillies and discard them. Shake out the seeds and get rid of those, but leave them in if you like your heat. Pour boiling water over the arbol chillies and chiltepins, set aside for 20 minutes to soften.
3. Place the cumin and caraway seeds and crumbled cinnamon into a small pan over medium heat. Toast until aromatic. Do not burn! Grind the toasted spices and smoked paprika flakes in a mortar, or if you have a spice grinder, blitz to a powder.
4. Place the capsicum, drained chillies, ground spices and remaining harissa ingredients into a jug. Using a stick blender, blend to a paste. Check for seasoning.
5. Keep refrigerated and use within 3 weeks, or freeze any excess.

Harissa butter

1. Using an electric blender, mix the butter until smooth. Add the ground fennel and harissa and continue blending until combined.

   
2. Scoop the harissa butter onto a piece of plastic wrap, shape into a 4 cm log, and roll tightly into the plastic. Twist the ends to tighten even more.
3. Refrigerate overnight before using, so the flavours can develop. Alternatively, freeze the butter for up to 3 months. You can easily cut chunks off it while it's frozen, keeping the excess frozen.

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